Lesson: Protection Used in Mountaineering
Mountaineers use several different forms of protection in the
mountains. We protect sections of climbs when the climbing is
getting severely steep or conditions warrant the need. A lot
comes down to your gut instinct. Many times I have asked myself
the question, "if someone fell here, could I self-arrest their
fall"?
If the answer is no, I begin to place protection to potentially secure a fall. Protection is also placed in other situations like crevasse rescue. The four commonly used tools for protection are The Picket; The Deadman; Ice Screws; Snow/Ice Bollard. Not to get too complex and long-winded, let's take a beginners look at The Picket.
The Picket is undoubtedly the most commonly used anchor in mountaineering. A picket is a 18 - 30 inch "glorified stake" with a specifically designed shape. The top of the picket typically has a hole for a carabiner or the ability to tie webbing into. A picket is driven into the snow/ice with a hammer (similar to slamming a tent stake into the ground). The picket has to be placed correctly. And of course the best way to learn is to actually practice it, which you can do on one of our seminar programs.
Snow conditions warrant which anchor you use. If the snow is powdery sugar, you will not be able to simply slam in a picket. If the snow is solid ice, you will not be able to dig a dead man. With experience in placing anchors and reading snow conditions you will become more comfortable and proficient in protection used in mountaineering. - Jeff Justman
Now Available!
Get your autographed copy of "Leaders of the Himalaya". This
beautiful poster features the "hard to get" photo of The
Hillary Step on Mount Everest. Available for a limited time in
limited quantities for
$10.00 includes shipping/handling. Contact info@mountain-link.com to
receive your autographed copy. Actual size 18" x 24"
Argentina: Great Season Planned for
Aconcagua
Teams are almost set for 5 Expeditions to Aconcagua. Mountain Link has the most experienced crew of guides leading the way. Last season Mountain Link Expeditions to Aconcagua had 100% success in reaching the top. Don't miss your chance to be a part of another successful season. To view a slideshow of Aconcagua, click here!
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December 27 - January 17, 2006: Lead Guides: Michael Horst
& Lhawang Dhondup
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January 4 - January 25 Lead Guides: Jeff "JJ" Justman,
Lhawang Dhondup, Cathy Canapeel
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January 10 - January 31 Lead Guides: John Lucia
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February 1 - February 22 Lead Guides: Robert Link & Jeff
"JJ" Justman
- February 4 - February 25 (Private Expedition) Lead Guides: Michael Horst & Cathy Canapeel
Kilimanjaro After New Year's
Join us January 11 - 26, 2006 to start the New Year right with
a luxury climb of
Kilimanjaro with Safari.
Alaska Denali Prep Courses
If you are heading or have the notion of heading to Alaska to
climb - "The High One"; Mountain Link is offering 3-day and
5-day Denali Prep Courses held at Snowbird, Utah.
These courses are designed to teach you the fundamental skills
needed to safely attempt a big mountain while attempting the
summit of the Pfeifferhorn (11,326').
Participants will learn:
• Crevasse Rescue Procedures
• Ice Climbing Techniques
• Principles of Glacier Travel
• Rappelling
• Anchors
• Cramponing Techniques
• And Much, much more
To prepare for Denali in Utah, click below for trip application, itinerary,and equipment list!
Snowbird 3-day Seminar: March 24 - 26, March 31 -
April 2
Snowbird 5-day Seminar: April 3 - April 7
Did You Know:
I never realized back in 1990 as I stood on top of Mount
Everest that I was really standing on the seafloor. Then in
1998 curiosity struck me when I found a fossilized sea shell on
Cho Oyu. Plate tectonics is what shaped Mount Everest and the
Himalayan mountain range. At one time, ocean separated Asia and
India. It is estimated that over 180 million years ago, the
Indo-Australian plate that India sits on, began to migrate
northward. It collided with the Eurasian plate and the seafloor
between the two land masses began to rise upward. Rock layers
that were once a part of the seafloor are now exposed on the
highest mountains in the world! - Robert Link
Trivia:
In concern of rope travel in general mountaineering what is
Safer, climbing on two rope teams of three climbers per rope OR
climbing on one rope with six climbers?
Send your answer to info@mountain-link.com. We will take all those that answer correct and pull one lucky winner from the hat. The winner will receive an autographed copy of "Leaders of the Himalaya" Mountain Link's recent poster.
Congratulations to Tom Blesi who answered September's Trivia
Question. One of the major reasons why people get cold in the
mountains is a lack of calories. In the mountains it
is critical to keep fuel in the fire.
