Tech Tip
Why rope up while glacier climbing? If you answered: "In case someone falls". You are correct. However, there are some issues to consider so that a fall doesn't turn into team suicide. Before tying into anyone, you should feel comfortable with your rope team members and their ability to properly "self arrest" or "team arrest" with an ice axe. If those terms are unfamiliar to you it is recommended that you seek legitimate instruction before tying in on any climb. There are two typical types of falls that can occur while climbing; one being a slope fall and the other a crevasse fall. Both can be easily remedied if the proper precautions have been taken in advance. The first of these precautions is a solid knot tied into the climbing rope, this allows you a secure place to clip your harness into the rope with a locking carabineer. The next step is properly spacing the distance between climbers on the rope. For most glacier climbs we recommend that climbers are 30ft. to 35ft apart when the rope is stretched out to the proper rope interval. The number of climbers that make up a rope team is also important. In my opinion four to five climbers is ideal. Most fatal accidents I have been involved with on glaciers have been parties of two. One person trying to escape the belay or anchor position while the other is hanging is difficult for even the most seasoned veterans. Two person parties are most effective in more vertical environments when anchors and belays are involved. We recommend two teams of three as opposed to one team of six however. This allows for more mobility in case of an accident. The two most experienced climbers should be tied into the two ends of the climbing rope. Rescue gear should be distributed to both ends also. This will ensure both the experience and equipment are available in case of a lead fall. There is nothing worse than to try to do crevasse rescue when all the necessary gear is already in the hole. - Robert Link
Trip Focus:
Argentina: Aconcagua
Come climb the highest peak in South America and knock of one of the fabled Seven Summits. This expedition takes our teams to extreme altitude. Come take on this challenge, spaces available for a limited time.
- December 27, 2005 - Jan 17, 2006
- January 4 - 25, 2006
- January 10 - 31, 2006
- February 1 - 22, 2006
Congratulations
Elbrus, Russia: Aug 2-13 Congrats to
Lee Meyers, Cheri Yousem, Gary Stower, John Warman, Cathy
Caenepeel and Jeff Hanson.
Mt Shasta Seminar: Aug 12-16 Congratulations to Terry French, Pam Painter, Ralph Haigh, Tim Truman, Keith Potts & Mike Lindaas on a 100%successful mountaineering seminar. To see some photos from there adventure - click here for Mt Shasta slideshow.
Mt Shasta Seminar: Aug 19-23 Nice work to our second successful seminar. Thanks to Eszter Belcher, Scott Belcher, Quemby Dunlap, Charles Liskey, Mike Lindaas and Dave Marchi.
Matterhorn: Aug 25 - Sept 4 Great work to the hard working team of Andy Mondry, Dave Dinger, Adam Nickamin, Gary Meggs, Robert Link, Jeff Justman, Lhawang Dhondup and Dan Windham.
Mt Blanc: Sept 4-9 Good work to a great job in the Alps! Awesome job to Doug Schaeffer, Don Harbart, Evelyn Mogster, Robert Kohrs, Lhawang Dhondup and Dan Windham. Click here for a slideshow of Mt Blanc.
Trivia Question
What is one of the largest reasons (according to
Robert Link) for sleeping cold at night?
Send your answer to info@mountain-link.com. We will take all who answer correctly, put their names in a hat and Robert Link will draw one lucky winner. The winner will receive a Mountain Link Logo-T-Shirt! Good luck!
Congratulations to Tom Tanaka for answering convection to the question - "What is the mechanism for heat loss or gain from wind moving across your body?"
News
Select the below link to the Yakima Herald to read about Robert
Link's historic climb of Mt Adams at 8 years of age.
Climbing -- First mass climb just the start for Link
We would like to thank our sponsor - Mountain Hardwear. Thanks for keeping us warm & dry!
