Mountain Link "The Tie In" July
JJ Justman Returns from Pakistan
After Mount Everest this season, Mountain Link Senior Guide JJ Justman travelled directly to Pakistan. There he led a team of International climbers on Broad Peak, the 12th highest mountain in the world.
JJ helped establish the route by fixing rope and making four camps progressively higher on the mountain. He mentioned, "I learned a valuable lesson from Robert Link. There typically are three camps on Broad but we decided a fourth camp placed near 25,000 feet would be the way to go. As Robert told me from his experiences on Everest, climbers may not need that high camp on the way up but they may need it on the way down".
JJ had a difficult summit day along with another climber and three high altitude porters. They busted a route through knee deep to waist deep snow. "When I hit the col and started to climb up towards the summit ridge I became uncomfortable with the next section. It was steep and it fell off into oblivion on both sides. Not using supplemental oxygen and being above 26,000 feet made me concerned of being able to make it safely back down".
It was at that point that JJ decided to personally turn from the remaining 200 feet of the climb. I applaud JJ in his decision. It's always a hard one to make but just the other day I read on the internet that a climber on a different team died from exhaustion where JJ decided to turn.
Media: If you would like to schedule an interview with JJ Justman please contact Mountain Link at 800-408-8949 or email info@mountain-link.com
You have to check out some of the climbing action that JJ captured with his video camera on Broad Peak. Click here for Mountain T.V.
We are glad to have JJ back and he is already itching to get back into the mountains. If you would like to join him on future climbs, here are a few that JJ Justman will be leading this Fall and Winter:
Ecuador Seminar: November 30 - December 10, 2006
Argentina Aconcagua: January 3 - 24, 2007
Argentina Aconcagua: January 31 - February 21, 2007
Jeff Hansen: More Climbers Summit in Ecuador!
Mountain Link Senior Guide Jeff Hansen reported, "I couldn't believe it! When we reached the crux of the climb, I placed a picket in for a running belay in anticipation for the ladder. But it never came! I looked back and realized we climbed right over it and were almost to the summit".
It snowed so much during the off-season that it filled in the crevasse that proves tricky to most expeditions on 19,348 foot Cotopaxi. Jeff certainly didn't complain seeing that it made the climb easier and more safe.
Congratulations Mountain Link Climbers
June 7th Expedition: Henry Clawalader, Mark Johstone, Mark Leininger, Nathan Johnson; Guides: Jeff Hansen & Eric Knoff
June 29th Expedition: James Matera, William Purcival, Taylor Purcival, Steve Franklin; Guides Jeff Hansen & Colon Falconi
Ecuador is one of our most popular climbing destinations for climbers looking to take the next step in a high altitude challenge. With mountains in the 19,000 foot and 20,000 foot range, Mountain Link climbers enjoy high, fun and safe climbing on the glaciated volcanos of Ecuador.
Click here to learn more and join Mountain Link, the World Leaders of Adventures in Ecuador this Fall or feel free to contact one of our Notorious Guides at 800-408-8949
Mike Lindaas Back in the Saddle on Mount Olympus
