A New Twist on Mountaineering - Mount Bachelor Climbing Schools and Seminars
Mount Bachelor is located in Central Oregon's Cascade Mountain Range. It is only half an hour from beautiful downtown Bend and about one hour from the Redmond Airport (RDM). Mount Bachelor is a first class ski resort with ten high speed chair lifts.
Mountain Link has recently partnered with Mount Bachelor to offer a series of instructional mountaineering programs. Whether you are new to mountaineering or just enjoy being outside in the spring and summer, this program will meet your needs. The one to four day climbing school and seminars, will range from overnight survival techniques to Denali preparation and be led by world class climbers and instructors. Upon completion, participants will have the knowledge and confidence to begin a safe and successful climbing career.
The various programs include:
- winter car survival
- proper camp building for extreme conditions
- introduction to high altitude physiology
- response to high altitude illness
- principles of glacier travel
- sled techniques
- anchors
- belaying on snow and ice
- cramponing techniques
- crevasse rescue procedures
- ice axe use
- rappelling
- self-belay techniques
- kitchen set-up and cooking
The climbing school and seminar encompasses much more than mountaineering, the surrounding area offers a variety of outdoor activities. Spring skiing at the Mt. Bachelor is some of the best in the country and the nearby Cascade Lakes Region, with its pristine waters and miles of trails, is perfect for fishing, canoeing, swimming and hiking. In addition, world class golf resorts have been built over the past several years for those anxious to swing a club with the Cascade Mountain range as a backdrop. Also important to mention is the Deschutes River, which winds its way through downtown Bend -- half-day trips down the "Big Eddy" are extremely popular.
Denail Prep 4-day program April 12-15 $595 ...May and June dates are to follow
CALL OUR OFFICE FOR MORE DETAILS, 800-408-8949
Volcanoes in Ecuador and Mexico: Team Updates
Mexico this year proved to be great climbing conditions. Both teams in March summitted both Ixta and Orizaba. We would like to congratulate all the team members for there strength and perseverance.
Robert Link has been personally leading trips in Ecuador and putting a lot of effort into creating new programs. We are proud to announce a Mountain Link first! We are currently leading a family focus climbing expedition in Ecuador. The itinerary allows for two trips to happen at the same time…together. Michael Flowers summitted Cayambe during adverse weather and crevasse rescue issues. While his family visited pre-Incan ruins and stayed in the first hacienda in Ecuador. They are able to come back together and celebrate the summit and along the way attend a traditional rodeo and spend an afternoon fishing. This trip offers an experience for the entire family.
Interested in climbing Mt. Elbrus? We are climbing the North side July 23- August 5, 2008! Click here for more details.
Tech Tip Part 2 : Boots, they make you or break you! Boots continues...
Construction
Boots these days are manufactured in very specific ways and with a variety of materials to suit different needs of climbers. Some are very specialized to certain styles and/or conditions, while others are designed to be more generalist. For those just getting into climbing/mountaineering, you will almost surely want to go for one of these generalists to begin with. They will cover you in wide range of climbs until you decide (or not) to pursue more specialized climbs. However, even amongst the generalists, individual boots will be better for certain climbs than for others. Below are a few different considerations in construction you will want to think about.
In general, the boot's volume (overall size) will impact some of its strengths and weaknesses. Smaller volume makes for narrower profiles more conducive for technical terrain while sacrificing how much insulation can be used for colder conditions. For really cold conditions or technical climbing in colder conditions, overboots or supergaitors can be used to provide additional insulation and removed for the technical sections.
Some boots use a layering
system similar to that of clothing. Referred to as double
boots, these use a removable liner for insulation and a
waterproof outer for support and waterproofing. Most
double boots are plastic, but a few leather double boots are
available. (see below for plastic vs. leather
outers) Double boots tend to be a bit heavier while
providing superior insulative capability as well as bomber
waterproofing. They are the standard for colder conditions
and the liners are nice for kicking around camp or in the
tent. Single boots have their insulation integrated into
the outer. Although being somewhat lighter, they can be
harder to dry when the interior gets wet from perspiration
and/or environmental conditions and generally don't have as
much insulation.
The boot's exterior, or outer, is one of the biggest considerations to weigh. Leather usually breaths well and can be lighter than plastics. However, it must be maintained, is more susceptible to wear from rubbing and scraping against rocks, and ultimately, does not have the waterproofing capabilities of plastic. Plastic is obviously very good at keeping moisture out, does not need much maintenance and holds up to many years of bumping and bruising. As they are so waterproof, sometimes perspiration can build up inside the boot leaving the foot susceptible trenchfoot and cold do to the conductive properties of water. They also tend to be bulkier and heavier though. Synthetic materials are usually quite breathable yet waterproof and lighter. They usually require a little more maintenance than plastic, but less than leather. Many can be quite resilient, even more so than plastic in the case of Kevlar. They are usually quite expensive.
While there are many other considerations in terms of the boots construction (see full article on our website), two are particularly important. The shank (a reinforcement of the sole determining the degree of flexibility) should be full-length unless the boot will be used almost entirely for trekking over flatter terrain. Another major consideration is crampon compatibility. Crampons are fixed to your boots in three different ways. Strap-on crampons will affix to nearly any boot. Step-in or automatic crampons require special "welts" (extensions of the sole) that extend far enough away from the upper to allow the toe bail and heel clip to adequately grip the boot. (Which type of crampons to use is a separate article in and of itself.)
Fit
Getting and recognizing the proper fit from your boots is the next step. After identifying the intended use for the boots and the specifications you desire, you will need to begin selecting some models to try on. There are several factors to keep in mind as you do so.
To begin with, go to a specialty retailer that has staff that understands how to properly fit a climbing boot . . . preferably someone who has spent some significant time in a variety of boots. You will also want to at least start with a retailer that carries a large selection of brands and models.
In general, you will want the boot to fit somewhat loose. However, take into consideration whether you typically wear shoes a little loose or tight. After years of rock climbing and soccer (both demand very tight fits for maximum performance), my first pair of mountaineering boots was too small, even though a full size larger than "normal" for me. As a starting point, you should be able to snugly slide an index finger behind your heel with your toes touching the front of an unlace boot while wearing the socks or combination of socks you are likely to use while climbing. After snugly synching the laces, the arch, heel and ankle should feel tight without by so tight as to restrict blood flow (read: very cold toes) and the toes should have plenty of room to move around. (Lacing should be done with the foot weighted.) Take them for a spin around the store taking advantage of stone beds, inclines/declines, steps and climbing walls if available. Any, yes any, discomfort while performing these tasks will result in misery later on.
There are a few tricks to lacing (surgeon's knot, runner's knot, and instep hitch) the boot a little differently to adjust for fit that is too tight through the heel and arch. If your salesperson does not know them, consider going elsewhere or see the full article on the website. If this does not work you could look to a thinner insert or insole, but only after having tried other models or makes of boot that meet your needs. There is a good chance that another boot will provide a better fit without having to modify it too much.
Each manufacturer designs their boots around a specific last (or model foot). While there are many quality boot makers ( Raichle has been constructing some outstanding boots which Mountain Link guides have been very pleased with.) with great products on the market, some will be building boots on a model foot more similar to yours and others not so similar. Just because your climbing friend has been satisfied with his or her boots, does not mean they will fit your foot. Try as many as you need to in order to find the one that fits you best.
Now that you are a proud owner of some damn fine boots, get out there and use them. Not only do your boots need to be broken in, your feet do as well. I would recommend getting at least 50 to 60 miles on them over diverse terrain to get decent break in.
As all who share the passion for big mountains are painfully aware of, we spend a lot of time on our feet while carrying heavy loads over less-than-hospitable terrain and conditions. If the slightest bothersome tweak with your feet due to some problem with boots or socks exists, your feet are in misery . . . which they seem overly eager to remind you of. Badly damaged feet due heavy blistering, frostbite or trench foot (aka immersion foot) can be DEBILITATING, not just a bearable annoyance. So don't skimp on spending the time needed to get the right ones. I promise that you, your climbing partners, and your guides will all be much happier if you have.
Keep Climb'in!
