TWO ANDEAN QUEENS
Huayna Potosí: 19,975 feet
Illimani: 21,003 feet
Join us on a truly remote expedition into the highest peaks of the Cordillera Real. Our goal is the two Andean Queens: Huayna Potosí and Illimani.
Referred to as "Cacca Aca" by the local Quechuas, Huayna Potosí's triangular peak offers a technically challenging climb. The lower mountain is primarily alpine in nature with the ascent via snow and scree covered slopes. This is excellent terrain to review and learn new high altitude skills before continuing on to Illimani.
Roped travel to the summit
After acclimatization, we begin our ascent through the lower
moraines to the glacier at 16,300 feet. From there, we rope
travel to high camp at 17,500 feet. High altitude porters
assist us in carrying group gear to high camp located in a
spectacular high-alpine basin. The final ascent is both
physically and technically challenging. The upper slopes and
summit ridge are steep and demanding; fixed line travel may be
involved in the final push to the summit.
The Highest Peak in the Cordillera Real
At 21,003 feet, Illimani is the highest peak in the Cordillera Real. Our route begins at the Southwest Buttress of Illimani where we climb steep, snow-covered glaciers to two camps at 16,000 and then 18,100 feet. Our route takes us via the Nido de Condores (Condors' Nest) along the ridge crest to the summit. Technique and positive mental attitude are the keys to success for this climb.
Pristine, remote country
This is still relatively untrodden country, giving you an
opportunity for one of the more pristine mountaineering
experiences that South America can offer. Although technically
challenging, the Cordillera Real enjoys relatively stable snow
and ice conditions. Avalanches are rare in this area. Come
explore the beauty that Bolivia has to offer.
Prerequisites
Expedition climbers should have a full range of technical
mountaineering skills. All climbers need prior experience at
high altitudes up to 14,000 feet, knowledge of crevasse rescue
and fixed line travel. In addition, climbers must be in good
physical condition. Please give our office a call if you have
any questions on skill level requirements.
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Questions about our trips? Please call us at (800) 408-8949. We are open 9-5, Pacific Time. Or, email us here.
